Acute Outside Points: How to be Successful

Acute outside points by hand are a challenge. But not an insurmountable one. Getting sharp acute points is a refinement of how one achieves 90 degree outside points. This blog will build on the information laid out in the blog “To the Point…Outside Points” where you learn the steps for how to get good outside points by hand reverse applique or applique.

Here we are going to discover how to successfully do those really sharp, skinny Acute Outside Points!

The biggest problem is the bulk of the fabric from the seam allowances. Let’s look at how to solve the problem.

I hand reverse applique/ applique using our Trace, Baste, Snip & Stitch method.  This process helps to facilitate my sharp outside points.

Shapes with 3 acute outside points each basted into place.

The basting step transfers the design to the top fabric while it stabilizes my fabric and keeps it in place until I remove it. In this process, the basting line ultimately becomes my sew line.  I baste with a No. 7 sharp needle and thick thread, like quilting or button thread. The thread leaves little “holes” in the background fabric that I can see to keep the edges of my shapes very clear.  I use these “holes” to know where my point is on my top fabric and where it needs to be positioned on my background fabric.

I take a stitch right into my point.

I tug outward on my thread to sharpen the stitch.

Then I take an anchoring stitch. Using the same holes as the last stitch, I go into the background and right into the center of the point.

I tug out on the point again.

You will notice a tail of the seam allowance from the first leg of the point (the stitched side) sticking out under the second leg (the un-stitched side.

Stitched right into the point on the first leg, and anchor stitch taken. You can see the seam allowance tail peeking out on the second leg.

Using your small scissors, cut off seam allowance tail in line with the second leg’s seam allowance.

Clip off the seam allowance tail in line with the second leg’s seam allowance.

Tail is gone. You are ready to sweep under the second leg’s seam allowance and stitch.

Using my needle like a windshield wiper, I sweep the raw edge under against the sewed seam of the first leg of the point. Be sure to use the side of the tip of the needle, not the point itself. You may need to work at it a bit, as you are in essence folding the fabric/ pleating the fabric into the tiny space. I send my needle into the background fabric right at the point, and travel it forward on the backside so that I come up into the top fabric as close to the point as I can to take my next stitch.  When I catch the fold of my top fabric, I make sure I’m not catching the fabric I swept under.  This keeps the seam allowance and all its threads tucked neatly inside the point.

Second leg tip is stitched down.

As you get to the small acute points at the other end of the shape you follow the exact same steps. Sew into the point. Clip the tails on both points. Sweep under and stitch.

Sew to the acute outside points.

Clip the tails in line with the seam allowance.

sweep under sea, allowance and stitch.

All three of the acute outside points are finished, sharp and crisp.

Second and third legs are all stitched down.

Thistle 7/9 block (16” x 16”)

Do you want to get good at outside points and acute outside points? Choose a pattern with a generous amount of them. We get good at something by doing it. Our Legacy Medallion XVI, Americana, Shooting Stars and Thistle 7/9 block are a few patterns that give you lots of opportunity to improve your skills with acute outside points by hand. Some are more acute than others. And Enchanted Evening and Karen’s Hospitality table runners have just a few acute outside points.

To learn how to do inside points without fraying read the blog “Pointers…Inside points and corners”.

Happy Quilting!

Enchanted Evening table runner (15” x 36”)