Machine Reverse Applique - Part 4 of 5: Corners & Acute Points
Welcome to Part 4 of our 5- part blog series on Machine Reverse Applique. Follow along and gain insight into how to prepare your piece and how to approach machine reverse applique to stitch with success. Become familiar with your sewing machine. Be aware of how you think about machine reverse applique. Learn tips for curves, circles, corners and acute points.
If you are just joining now, we invite you to go back and read Machine Reverse Applique Part 1 -Creative Possibilities, Part 2 - Stabilizing Your Fabric and Part 3 - Your Sewing Machine & You.
Machine Reverse Applique: Corners & Acute Points with the Satin Stitch
As a reminder, I’m someone who sews with the background fabric on my left and the top fabric on my right, which means the left needle position of the satin stitch goes into the background fabric, and the right needle position goes into the top fabric. You may want to reverse this, sewing with the right needle position of the satin stitch going into the background fabric and the left needle position going into the top fabric. Experiment to see what works best for you. However, this series of blogs will look at satin stitching with my way of sighting.
Corners are 90 degree angle points
Each corner has two legs. One goes into it and the other goes out from it. We stitch into it on the first leg, pivot, and then stitch out from it on the second leg.
Inside corners
Inside corners are those points that are 90 degrees, like the corner on the inside of a box.
I stitch beyond the corner the same length as the width of my stitch. This is where having a feel for how wide your stitch is comes in handy. Typically that’s about 3 - 5 stitches +/- beyond the raw edge of your inside corner depending upon the width of your satin stitch. I end with my needle in the right hand position of the satin stitch.
I leave the needle in the down position, raise my presser foot, and pivot my piece so my presser foot is parallel to the stitched leg of my inside corner, or perpendicular to the next leg to be stitched, and lower the presser foot to begin sewing.
Outside corners
Outside corners are those points that are 90 degrees, like the outside corner of a box.
I stitch to the corner leaving the needle in the left side of the satin stitch in the needle down position. Pick up the presser foot, turn your piece so the presser foot is parallel to the stitched leg of my outside corner or perpendicular to the next leg, the un-stitched leg, of the outside corner, lower the foot down, and sew.
Acute Points
Each acute point has two legs. One goes into it and the other goes out from it. We stitch into the acute point on the first leg, pivot, and then stitch out from the acute point on the second leg.
The challenge of acute inside and outside points is to stitch sharp, clean points that don't have "x-ed" tails or gaps at the point. Follow these steps and you will.
Acute Inside Points
Acute inside points are those points that are less than 90 degrees. I will use my practice piece layered for appli-quilting to demonstrate.
I stitch beyond the acute inside point the same length as the width of my stitch. This is where having a feel for how wide your stitch is comes in handy. Typically that’s about 5 stitches +/- beyond the raw edge of your acute inside point. I end with my needle in the right hand position of the satin stitch.
Raise your presser foot and pivot your piece to the right so the presser foot is parallel to the stitched leg.
Take one stitch so the needle ends in the left hand position of the satin stitch.
Raise your presser foot and pivot your piece to the right again so the presser foot is perpendicular to the second leg, the un-stitched leg, of the acute inside point. Put your presser foot down and sew.
Acute Outside Points
Acute outside points are also points that are less than 90 degrees. I will use my practice piece layered for appli-quilting to demonstrate.
I stitch right to the acute outside point and end with the needle in the left hand position of the satin stitch, with the needle in the background fabric.
Raise your presser foot and pivot your piece to the left so the presser foot is parallel to the stitched leg.
Take one stitch so the needle ends in the right hand position of the satin stitch.
Raise your presser foot and pivot your piece to the left again so the presser foot is perpendicular to the second leg, the un-stitched leg, of the acute outside point. Put your presser foot down and sew.
See you next time, January 31, 2018, for Machine Reverse Applique - Part 5 of 5: Curves & Circles. Use what you've learned about your sewing machine and of Needle- Eye coordination and get tips on how to satin stitch smooth, evenly stitched curves and circles.
Check out our blog "Feel the Love with Snowy Hearts" to create machine reverse applique place mats with appliqued reversible napkins to decorate your table for February. Its a small, fun project that gives you the opportunity to gain proficiency with the machine reverse applique techniques presented in this blog series using Snowy Hearts table runner IX.
If you are just joining now, we invite you to go back and read Machine Reverse Applique Part 1 -Creative Possibilities, Part 2 - Stabilizing Your Fabric, and Part 3 - Your Sewing Machine & You.
Visit the machine applique section of our shop for our unique reverse applique patterns for creating by machine.